Birichino Scylla 2022

A change in make-up for Scylla this year, with Carignan leading proceedings and Mourvdre in support. The Carignan (78%) is sourced from two century-old vineyardsMontague and Mule Planelocated within 500 metres of each other in the Mokelumne River area of Lodi. The Montague sitewith its big plump berries and buncheslends a juicy, crunchy and outgoing character to the more dense, dark, savoury and mineral profile of Mule Plane. Both sites give low yieldsaveraging two tonnes per acre in Mule Plain and four in Montagueand lie on the region’s fine, sandy loam soils, though Mule Plain is closer to the river and has a higher rock content. The Mourvdre (22%) is from the Besson Vineyard in Santa Clara Valley in Santa Cruz, from very low-yielding vines grafted over from 1920s Marsanne using cuttings from Beaucastel. It fills in the texture and body of the Carignan, according to winemaker Alex Krause.

The varieties spontaneously ferment separately. The Montague fruit (accounting for about half the blend) was destemmed, while the Mule Plain fruit had whole bunches and stalks layered throughout the ferment. The Mourvdre component fermented in a small bin. After 10 days with once-a-day punch-downs, the wines were pressed off and blended before maturation in neutral wood until the following summer (about eight months).

Comparing Birichinos two Rhne-inspired blendsRokurokubi & Inugami being the otherwinemaker Alex Krause describes Scylla as the brighter, juicier, more immediately approachable wine.